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Hawksmoor – The Burger

The Hawksmoor Burger

The Hawksmoor Burger

The Hawksmoor Burger. Everyone loves it. Often touted as the best burger in London by the food bloggerati, I had to try it. Fast forward to a Friday lunchtime and a decadent solo lunch.

Not everyone loves solo lunches, but I do. Every now and then, there’s nothing nicer than being very nice to yourself, allowing yourself some quiet time. You, a nice meal and a glass of nice wine in nice surroundings. Enter a book that’s grabbed your attention, and for me, that’s a perfect couple of hours. Of course, I also love more gregarious ones, they’re the most fun of all, but life’s about balance and contrast and to appreciate one you need the other.

Hawksmoor at lunchtime on Fridays is busy. Very busy. Lots of people, lots of chat, lots of steak on the tables and lots of people drinking wine. I like it. I seat myself at the bar and on the barman’s recommendation (I told him I would be ordering the burger and would like a red wine with body but also some fruit), ordered a glass of Main Divide Pinot Noir, 2007 from Pegasus Bay in New Zealand. I love NZ Pinot Noirs, and yet this one takes me by surprise, it’s really fruity yet has lots of structure. It feels like a delicious and naughty interlude while I wait for my burger. It’s only 1pm after all.

The Hawksmoor burger is at the high end of the London burger market at £15, but then Hawksmoor is no ordinary steakhouse. They carefully source their product, after much research settling on the Ginger Pig Longhorn cattle. They serve, in their words, dictionary- thick steaks from North Yorkshire dry aged for at least 35 days. Their philosophy is simple, they source high quality steak and do very little to it, simply searing it on a blisteringly hot charcoal grill, and delivering it with a gorgeous char ready to be devoured. I loved it when I was there last time and the burger now awaited me.

It was time – the burger arrived. I put down my wine glass and my book and surveyed this delicious looking creature. Delivered with triple cooked chips, pioneered by Heston Blumenthal and now replicated elsewhere, the burger glistens from beneath a seeded brioche, smelling intensely meaty and covered with a thin coating of Ogleshield Cheese from Somerset with a little salad. Just a little.

Burgers are to be eaten with your hands, and even though this is a big one, this is what I did. It’s a burger! Eat it the way it should be eaten. The flavour was so rich and gorgeous, full of umami. I felt like, in the best possible way, I was licking a roasting tray having slow roasted some meat over night. It was gorgeous, intense, moist and fatty. People complain about fat, but that’s where the flavour is, a good burger needs it. The chips were good, but I really didn’t care about them now, I wanted only the burger. The wine was a lovely accompaniment, I was only sad that I could only have one glass. It is lunchtime and I must have some standards. Occasionally.

Why is the burger so special? Like most deceptively simple things, it’s the attention to detail that delivers something that stands out. Consisting of of 100% Longhorn, it includes old fashioned cuts like Clod and Sticking and small nuggets of bone marrow. Ah bone marrow, now I understand the intensity.

So, hats off to Hawksmoor for delivering the finest burger that I have tasted in London. I look forward to trying it again, with a delicious glass of that lovely Pinot Noir.

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I like food. I like to make food. Eat food. Photograph food. Write about food. Mainly in London but when I am lucky or organised further afield.

37 Comments

  1. Niamh

    Great post !

    I agree the Hawkmore burger it excellent.

    The steaks I’m less keen about as despite the Ginger Pigs Yorkshire Longhorn being decent quality meat coming from cattle that have received good husbandry – for me it lacks the marbling necessary that together with 35+ days dry aging produces the perfect material for a great steak.

    I’m also not convinced that the breed in question is the best and am researching the subject at present.

    In terms of eating solo I cannot tink of a more appropriate thing to eat alone than a good burger – It’s not a pretty site when I ‘m eating it !

    Reply

    • I would have to slightly disagree with the Long horn breed and marbling statement. Each rib/hind quarter is individual and will each have very different marbling and distribution of fat . As good chefs and butcher say no two pieces of beef are the same ! remember its a natural product.. so who buys the beef at Hawksmore and do they know what to look for ………

      Reply

      • Hi Nick. Absolutely – I don’t think I said otherwise. They know theuir beef, I assure you. The Ginger Pig is their sole supplier.

  2. I am absolutely salivating after reading your account with this burger… I want to be there now, and having a glass – or two – of the Pinot!

    Reply

  3. Sold, looks like a perfect autumn lunch. Can’t wait to try it. Do you know if you can you eat at the bar in the evening?

    Reply

  4. Nice to see someone else who enjoys the solo lunch with a book approach to eating out sometimes.

    I’ve yet to try any beef at Hawksmoor (which is a crime, although the lamb and pork I had there last time was excellent), but I’m visiting for a friend’s birthday next month and feel the burger will be the item to try and resist in favour of a steak.

    Reply

  5. I love the solo lunching too, an hour or so when you can just totally indulge yourself, and not worry about having to entertain or accommodate other people!

    Reply

  6. Wowser. I’m going for dinner tomorrow… I’m a sucker for a burger at the best of times but probably should have steak for the first time. Good on ya for being another solo luncher too, isn’t it funny when people ask you if you’re okay doing it? “Er yes, I’m just fine thanks”

    Reply

  7. Your description of you eating the burger and the picture of the burger had me salivating. I have bookmarked your blog. It seems like you great content here.

    Reply

  8. I’ll be at the same birthday dinner as cowfish, and I’m wondering if we should perhaps order a couple of burgers to be divvied up between the group, as a sort of side dish. Meat with meat on the side.

    Reply

  9. Oh the burger sounds just delicious!

    I’m a longtime fan of occasional solo meals — a good book plus some people watching, depending on the venue. Can’t beat it.

    Reply

  10. Oh that does sound rather lovely. I haven’t yet been to Hawksmoor, but my vegetarianism has been on the rails for a little while, and if one is going to break faith it might as well be with something quite as delicious as this sounds.

    Reply

  11. Agree with you about solo lunching…my current fetish is eating solo in Japanese restaurants. Thought the burger looked fabulous. Great post.

    Best wishes

    The Greasy Spoon

    Reply

  12. What a mistake to read this before breakfast! I could eat this right now. I can imagine how delicious the burger would be, just from having tasted their steaks. I actually enjoy solo eating once in a while. I can really focus on the food and it’s interesting that the treatment from wait staff can be different too.

    Reply

  13. Still haven’t tried the Hawksmoor burger – its on my list of dishes to try – but, it’s akward…. Hawsmoor is a right old schlep from where I’m working nowadays, and if I remember correctly the burgers not available in the evening or weekends. Despite these hurdles, I WILL make it there at some point.

    Reply

  14. Looks like a beast of a burger (and an interesting name too, if you read anything about old Nick Hawksmoor).

    I’d like to put it head to head against Dublin’s champion gourmet burger, Jo’Burger (/shameless plug for my favourite local burger joint).

    Reply

  15. The bun looks great! and the burger too…hmmm….
    Must make out of my South London comfort zone and go there…

    Reply

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  27. Next time you are at a hawksmoor try a burger at their Bar instead of the Restaurant. It’s a different burger and it is better than the restaurant burger. I consider it the best burger in London (and the world)

    Reply

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