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A Postcard from Parma and Torrechiara, Emilia Romagna

I have just come back from a gorgeous day. The sun shone, the sky was bright blue and was a perfect contrast to the rust brown and lighter buildings. I visited a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy and saw the whole process, I had a wonderful lunch (at a last minute destination – I am glad I made that decision!), and then I visited a prosciutto di parma producer. So far, so awesome.

I have been busy eating in Bologna, but I won’t share my list of where to eat here until the end of the trip, as there are many more eating days to go. As mentioned in my last post, you can follow everything as I go on social media which is a more immediate update. Do so by checking in on @eatlikeagirl on twitter and instagram, the Eat Like a Girl page on Facebook, and by following the hashtags#Blogville (twitter) and #InEmiliaRomagna (twitter) in all of those spaces too. I include restaurant names above the picture on instagram, which clicks through to a map too.

My day was split between Parma itself, just outside at the dairy and a few hours within for lunch and a wander. Then I went to Langhirano, home to the Parma ham producer I was visiting, and Torrechiara, which has a gorgeous 15th century castle overlooking. The castle was affected by the recent earthquake but they have done a wonderful job of restoring it. Many rooms are covered in stunning mythological 15th century frescoes, and the views are divine.

I went a bit crazy in the Parmigiano Reggiano dairy shop, but you all knew I would.

 

A parmigiano reggiano dairy. 1200l of fresh raw & unrefrigerated milk is in each copper and steel tub. Each tub makes 2 wheels of cheese if at capacity.

A parmigiano reggiano dairy. 1200l of fresh raw & unrefrigerated milk is in each copper and steel tub. Each tub makes 2 wheels of cheese if at capacity.

Cutting the cheese twins into two girl cheeses (if only one cheese is made in a tub it is called a boy) in the parmigiano reggiano dairy

Cutting the cheese twins into two girl cheeses (if only one cheese is made in a tub it is called a boy) in the parmigiano reggiano dairy

The left over whey - still warm - which goes to feed the pigs. The pigs then become prosciutto di parma, pancetta etc!

The left over whey – still warm – which goes to feed the pigs. The pigs then become prosciutto di parma, pancetta etc!

Moulding the parmigiano reggiano

Moulding the parmigiano reggiano

Aging the parmigiano reggiano. Each wheel is tested after one year to ensure it is up to exacting standards. After 24 months it is parmigiano reggiano.

Aging the parmigiano reggiano. Each wheel is tested after one year to ensure it is up to exacting standards. After 24 months it is parmigiano reggiano.

Lunch was at Trattoria Corrieri in Parma, open since 1800.

Lunch was at Trattoria Corrieri in Parma, open since 1800.

Torta Fritta! Known in other parts as gnocco fritta, these gorgeous puffed fried breads are served hot and you stuff them with salami, prosicutto, lardo, whatever you fancy.

Torta Fritta! Known in other parts as gnocco fritta, these gorgeous puffed fried breads are served hot and you stuff them with salami, prosicutto, lardo, whatever you fancy.

... as I was in Parma, I had prosciutto di Parma with my torta fritta :)

… as I was in Parma, I had prosciutto di Parma with my torta fritta :)

I opted for a typical Parma pasta after, . Extremely delicate the pasta itself was elastic and smooth, blissfully unaware of its delicious tension. The filling was spinach and ricotta, mainly beautifully light ricotta. The spinach seemed to act more as a seasoning.

I opted for a typical Parma pasta after my torta fritta, tortelli d’erbetta . Extremely delicate, the pasta itself was elastic and smooth, blissfully unaware of its delicious tension. The filling was spinach and ricotta, mainly beautifully light ricotta. The spinach seemed to act more as a seasoning.

Next stop was Pio Tosini, a parma ham producer in Langhirano near Parma

Next stop was Pio Tosini, a parma ham producer in Langhirano near Parma. One of the largest ones, they still use artisanal techniques to produce their ham.

I had a tour through the whole process with the owner Giovanni. I love a tour by a producer, always fascinating, and more on that soon.

I had a tour through the whole process with the fourth generation owner, Giovanni. I love a tour by a producer, always fascinating, and more on that soon.

The 15th century castle at Torrechiara.

This campaign was created and sponsored by the Emilia Romagna Tourist Board in partnership with  iambassador.  I maintain full editorial control of the content published, as always.

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I like food. I like to make food. Eat food. Photograph food. Write about food. Mainly in London but when I am lucky or organised further afield.

12 Comments

  1. Beautiful photos, that really show the essence of how special Emilia-Romagna is for food. Glad you went at Trattoria i Corrieri in Parma. One of my favourite places ever!
    I’d be curious to know what’s the place in the last photo. Looks awesome!

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  2. What a yummilicious trip is was.. I am so hungry after watching those amazing photographs. But anyhow, I would say that it was a visual delight and treat. I am eating Ham *In my imagination* :D
    Thanks sharing wisdom!

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  3. Trattoria Fantoni in Via Pratello. Simple but delicious. Pasta best ever though essentially a student eatery. Good value lunches too. Bologna is the foodie’s paradise. Dont forget to visit Mr Tamburini

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  4. It was a bad idea to read this before dinner, now I’m craving something with parmesan and parma ham!!! And I have another place in Italy to visit!! A good problem to have though…

    Reply

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