Sounds complicated, no? It really isn’t. This is the quickest most delicious dish you will make, and like all good things in food, it’s all down to the sourcing.

Burrata is a magical cheese from Puglia in Italy. It consists of an outer mozzarella coat filled with mozzarella bits and fresh cream. Shaped still warm, it is tied at the top, traditionally wrapped in leaves as an indicator of whether the cheese was good to eat. If the leaves were brown, it was off. Today it is more common to wrap it in plastic.

I still remember my surprise and delight the first time I cut into burrata and watched the cream sigh out. It is utterly decadent. It is also available truffled, which takes it to another level.

Burrata must be fresh. I sourced this one from a new deli in London – Melograno Deli – and, disclosure, it is owned by my friend and fellow blogger Dino. Dino has an incredible knowledge of food and a finely tuned palate, so I was very excited to hear it was opening.

I trekked over yesterday and was delighted with what I saw. I bought a lot to take home too so anticipate some fine cooking adventures. My favourite Pastificio dei Campi pasta is stocked there, SAP n’duja in the jar (remember my n’duja pig?), wonderful carefully selected charcuterie (easily some of, if not the best I have had in London), Square Mile Coffee, terrific parmesan and other cheeses, retaurant quality food to take home (from one of Dinos favourites – I can’t recall the name), Italian craft beers, a broad wine selection for all price ranges and much more. It’s a deli paradise.

But the burrata, what did I do with it? What exactly is in it? Well, another one of my favourite things is Isle of Wight Oak Smoked Tomatoes. I am going to the Isle of Wight tomorrow and it got me thinking about them and it and I fancied a pre Isle of Wight, Isle of Wight supper, if you know what I mean.

I get tomatoes from the Isle of Wight farm most weeks at the market, they are full flavoured and the antithesis of those awful Dutch waterbombs. The oak smoked are a whole other level, an intense tomato explosion. I came across them a few years ago and thought – TOMATO BACON! – there is that same umami whack and intensity with a sweet rich tomato base, I always have some in my fridge and was grateful when I spotted them lurking at the back to put with my burrata.

I decided that I would do a twist on a traditional caprese with the tomatoes inside in the burrata, just tucked in gently, paddling in the cream. I also made a quick basil oil to dress it with.

It was so quick, and really delicious. I think a dream starter to share for friends or an indulgent lunch for one.

Notes on the recipe: it is best to make the basil oil in advance but if you haven’t done this, just stir the basil into the oil and serve. It won’t be as full flavoured but will still be good. If you are making it, make more and keep it in your fridge for a week or so.

If you can’t get the tomatoes, subtitute with good sun dried, oven dried or semi dried tomatoes.

Recipe: Burrata with Oak Smoked Tomatoes & Basil Oil

Serves 2

1 x burrata (freshness is absolutely key)
Approx 12 oak smoked tomato halves

Basil Oil

100ml extra virgin olive oil
handful of basil, shredded

Make the basil oil by adding the shredded basil to the oil. Allow to infuse overnight in the fridge if possible.

Gently unwrap the burrata and cut the top off – this is a chefs treat in my house and I devour it there and then.

Gently tease open the top and place the tomatoes inside, taking care not to squeeze the cream out.

Drizzle with basil oil, season and you’re ready to serve.

http://www.melograno.co.uk/

http://www.thetomatostall.co.uk/stockists/

(This started as a food post, where I was going to share my recipes from the dinner I cooked for friends over the evening of the London riots and the evening after where we stayed in doors for fear of one. It became something else and I thought I would post it anyway)

I arrived back from Dubai on Monday evening extremely tired and happy to be home. I wandered slowly through the streets of Dalston, jetlag dragging on my limbs like deep pools of treacle, noting quickly the intense sirens and many helicopters. A quick browse of twitter and I discovered that London was up in arms and there were riots happening and brewing.

Living in East London, a lot of it was happening on my doorstep, although, thankfully not actually so. We could hear everything and stayed vigilant but as we live in a residential area with no shops or restaurants to loot, they didn’t trouble us. I followed poor Uyen’s trauma over twitter, hoping she would be ok with a car on fire outside her flat in Hackney. Thankfully they moved on and she was fine.

Turkish Community Protecting Dalston (Photo originally from twitter user @yassin

Remarkably, the local Turkish community defended their property and the rest of us, driving out the rioters. The Bangladeshi community in Brick Lane did the same and the Greek community in North London – do watch this great video on the Guardian.

I read many heartbreaking tweets from friends. One told of how in her local Hackney shop, she watched an elderly shopkeeper as he was told by two youths that they would burn down his shop that night. With tears in his eyes he graciously served them. I do hope his shop survived. Another friend tweeted of the fireman he found weeping in a nearby park.

Elsewhere, restaurants were vandalised and invaded with a mass mugging by looters at London favorite The Ledbury. Rioters took jewellery, wallets and mobile phones from diners before being chased out by chefs brandishing knives. I read first about it when a chef, Harry Wilkinson, whose parents were dining there told him and he tweeted it, then when one of the chefs, Isaac McHale, confirmed it on twitter himself. Touchingly, many regular customers turned up the next day offering to clean up. The Ledbury refused to close the next day too, bravely opening their doors to the public.

Most shops and restaurants closed but some, resilient, stayed open. I suspected things might stay calm yesterday but just in case, stocked up. Instead of riots, the reality yesterday in Dalston was that it was a gentle, calm and sunny evening, and there were no riots at all. No doubt due to the increased police presence all over London, and I think the riot frenzy had hit a climax the night before. I don’t envy their job, what a tough week they have had.

Frustratingly, clumsy mainstream media reporting decided to blame twitter and blackberry messaging for the rioting. Ridiculous to say the least, for me it was a sane and reliable source of information on the situation (this of course does depend on who you follow but most journalists are on there and were reporting from the scene). It is also where the heavily attended and extremely efficient #riotcleanup was, and continues to be, organised from. Celebrities like the Kaiser Chiefs got involved, and tweeted as they swept.

I saw someone tweet that blaming twitter for riots is liking blaming typewriters for death threats. Hear hear! It was nonsensical to do so.

Bigger issues were at play – where was our political leadership and why were the police so unable to cope until David Cameron finally returned from holiday and increased the numbers on the streets? Why are we even considering cutting their numbers?

I know we’re not out of the woods yet, but hope this is it for now. These riots are indicative of deep social problems that need to be understood and addressed. I am not defending the violence of the riots – that was wrong and criminal and cannibalistic to devour their own communities. That is the issue though, they don’t feel like they are their communities. The political leadership has disappointed so far, but can we please look into this? Otherwise, next time will be only worse. An inclusive, less elitist society should prevent it.

I will leave you on a nice note. London does pull together and most people are good. Just look at this riot shield tea tray, with tea from some good folks in Camden for the tired police in a calm instant mid-riot.

My naming conventions for my Toronto posts are even confusing me now. But I wrote a Part 1 then – HAD TO, JUST HAD TO WRITE – that bacon post, which has screwed things up a little. I am back now with the second and final part of my Toronto food highlights round up.

To re iterate, as it has been a little while, I was very impressed with the quality and variety of restaurants there and these are a few highlights. And their playlists! That’s a bit random I know but each one could have been playing from my iPod. There’s a strong indie buzz running through Tornto, both in fashion and music and I like it.

Here you go!

GIANT buttermilk pancakes at The Counter in The Thompson

Scallops at Toka

Maple Burger at E11even (with local craft beers)

Gnocchi Poutine with Oxtail Ragu at Mildred's Temple Kitchen

Tasting Menu at Colborne Lane

Tasting Menu at Colborne Lane

As soon as I get some time, I hope soon, I will publish a proper piece on my favourite places so that you can find them when you visit.

Maple Glazed Roast Peameal Bacon

One of the many joys of travelling is discovering the hidden local food gems. Those foodstuffs that have developed there through local customs, locally grown or caught products or immigration. Everywhere has them, and Toronto has peameal bacon.

Peameal Bacon Sandwich at Carousel Bakery, Toronto

The name alone is enough for me to want to take a bite – something I haven’t eaten yet – an unexplored food joy. I find I am constantly seeking new experiences and I always find that first bite a wonder. Almost always good, sometimes – and rarely – awful. Tuna Salami I am looking at you, please don’t darken my door again!

It’s attributed to English influence – England at one point had a pork shortage and so imported bacon sides from Canada. I do wonder if we Irish had a hand in it though. Back bacon (which this is) is the favoured cut in Ireland, and it really reminds me of gammon. Toronto used to be called little Belfast too, and has a suburb which was once full of Cork people called Corktown. There is also Cabbage Town where Irish immigrants grew cabbages in their gardens to eat. I love that. Can’t my address also be in Cabbage Town?

Raw peameal bacon with it's lovely yellow coat

Peameal bacon was made by using ground yellow peas as a cure during the war years. This treatment ensured a longer shelf life and less bacterial problems. Over time corn was adapted as cornmeal became more readily available and was even less risky from a bacterial perspective

Carousel Bakery in St Lawrence Market, Toronto

What of the peameal bacon sandwich though? An essential pitstop while in Toronto is Carousel Bakery at St Lawrence Market. It is deservedly famous. Moist thick slices of peameal bacon with maple mustard in a hot bread roll is a perfect lunch. It reminded me so much of Irish bacon it whisked me right back to my childhood for a very pleasant ten minutes. Go.

St Lawrence Market, 92- 95 Front St E, Toronto, ON M5E 1C3, Canada

Flat Rock Winery, Niagara

Toronto had a lot of great food to offer. Burrata frequented more menus than I have seen anywhere else, and there is doubtless many strong multicultural influences (Greek, Japanese, Korean to name but a few).

I had several very good meals while I was there and tried as much local food and local Niagaran and Ontarian wine as I could. It was a wonderful few days.

Here’s a few highlights before I board my flight back.

Pigs Ears with Fennel Salt from Buca, Toronto

Heirloom salad with burrata at Scarpetta

Peameal Bacon Sandwich with Maple Mustard from Carousel, St Lawrence Market

21 day home cured lardo with bread dumplings from Buca - amazing

Suckling Pig Tacos at Nota Bene

Hamachi Ceviche from Nota Bene

It's the CN TOWER! :)

So, Toronto Part 2! And another CN tower shot. I couldn’t resist.

Hannah at Matchbox Farm

Back from Niagara, I visited some local farmers and get a feel for the Toronto food culture from the roots up. Field to Fork and Nose to Tail.

Wild Grapes at Matchbox Farm

I met Hannah from matchbox, a relative newcomer to the farming scene. An ex chef with a passion for good ingredients, Hannah set up Matchbox with her husband and grows approx 100 different crops from chillies to cabbage.

Mainly heirloom products, selected for flavour, with some sourced at the last Slow Food Terra Madre in Italy. Hard work, no doubt, but she does it with aplomb. Brilliant produce comes out of there.

I now need to get me some blue cabbage seeds.

Dingo farms was next.

Denis at Dingo Farms

Dingo Farms

A small family run farm just outside Toronto run by Denis & Denise with their 5 children pitching in. Cows and pigs are the focus of their operation with some rabbits too, a pet project of their son.

Denis & Denise do everything on site, even growing and drying their own feed. Naturally, their produce is in fierce demand from chefs in Toronto. They supply half or whole carcasses to them usually, to be used usually in a nose to tail manner.

Dingo Farm

Denise of Dingo Farm with her *amazing* homemade cheesecake

Finally Cookstown Greens, from David Cohlmeyer, previously a food columnist at the Toronto Globe and Mail.

David Cohlmeyer of Cookstown Greens

In his own words “For a lot of reasons, I concluded that “cheap-food/chemical-agriculture” cannot continue providing nutritious, satisfying food. So in 1988, with the support of several leading Toronto chefs, I set out to demonstrate a natural Canadian alternative.” Cookstown Greens is a magical spot with a wonderful selection of products.

Wild Flowers at Cookstown Greens

Constantly innovating (in a natural non-invasive way) and sourcing new products, David supplies many of Torontos restaurants with his terrific heirloom tomatoes, pumpkin flowers and other edible flowers, purpole potatoes and many other ingredients.

Packing pumpkin flowers for restaurants at Cookstown Greens

Siberian Peas at Cookstown Greens

Wonderful Tomato Salad at Cookstown Greens

Thanks to Tourism Toronto & Slow Food Toronto for helping arrange these visits. It was an education, and I loved seeing these producers names pop up on menus as I visited restaurants and trying them again, this time on a plate with a chefs touch as opposed to straight out of the ground.

Lots to think about, I think we could learn a lot from these guys.

The CN Tower in blazing Toronto sunshine

Greetings from Toronto folks! It’s hot-hot-hot here, if you are looking for summer, we definitely have it.

I’ve been having a brilliant week, firstly visiting the Niagara Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration – a huge tasting and celebration of chardonnays made at 45 latitude. Really interesting, lovely wines and lots of winemakers who are only delighted to introduce you to their wines.

There was lots of great food – smoked barbecued pork chops with local peaches, ribs, pulled pork in buttermilk and corn bread, peach tarts (they’re in season!), blueberry french toast and so much more. And, those falls. Wow.

Then to food in Toronto which I have been very impressed with so far. Brilliant ingredients and a simplicity and elegance in cooking and presentation has really stood out. Lots of attention is paid to seasonality and local produce. It’s all about flavour here, and they have it in spades.

I have one more day here to cram lots in. So many places will have to wait until my next visit.

Some photo highlights for you now with more detail and recommendations soon.

Toronto Skyline from the Rooftop Bar of the Thompson Toronto Hotel

CN Tower Reflection in a Skyscraper

Niagara Falls from a Helicopter

Peach Salad

Niagara Grapes

Lobster Mushroom & Hen of the Woods Mushroom

Trip over the whirlpool at Niagara

Niagara from the Sky

Smoking ribs at Ravine Winery

Chorizo & Ricotta Grits - this pic does them no justice - I was hungry :(

My friend Kat from Florida always spoke of grits. I had never had any, and it seemed like the mystical Caesar from Canada (a bloody Mary made with clam juice – sounds wrong but oh my, is it wonderful). I wanted some.

But, where to start with grits? Tough to find in the UK (although Spuntino has recently put some on their menu). I did my research and some compared it to polenta. I could see that that wasn’t quite right as when I occasionally mentioned this to someone from the deep South, they reacted like I was insulting their mother.

I could see that there was quick cook and then old school. I wanted old school so when I went to Florida in February, I sourced proper Carolina plantation grits that came in their own little sack, and thus started a grits adventure.

I played around a bit and discovered that yes, they were gritty, and nutty too. Slightly grey in colour, they need long cooking – an hour to get the right texture (unless you are using quick grits).

I made some plain to have with a chorizo stew and had a eureka moment – why not put the chorizo in, with some ricotta (to make them light and fluffy) and bake them for the last half an hour to get fluffy grits packing a chorizo punch with a nice crispy crust.

Baked Ricotta Grits with Aji Amarillo - a delicious stage in the testing process

I did, and I haven’t looked back. They are a Sunday staple now, and proudly, my Floridian friend has proclaimed them the best grits she ever had.

Notes on the recipe: it seems like a lot of water, it is a lot of water, an not much grits, but these dry little grits need it and they will expand. They will be fluffy, not soggy. Use good ricotta, the best dry stuff, or make your own (easy and recipe in a certain book “Comfort & Spice coming your way soon! :)

Recipe: Chorizo & Ricotta Grits

Serves 4 as part of breakfast (stunning with a fry up) or 2 for lunch

Ingredients:

100g proper grits (not quick cook)
700ml water
150g cured chorizo, diced
100g good ricotta (I used buffalo)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (OPTIONAL: I like heat so I add this but not essential)
sea salt

Method:

Add the water to the grits in a solid pan. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for half an hour. They will look like grey molten tar, but don’t worry. Stir occasionally as they will stick.
Preheat your oven to 200 deg C. While it is heating and the grits are cooking, sauté the chorizo until softening in a little oil, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a minute or two. Take off the heat.
Add the ricotta, chorizo and garlic to the grits and mix. Pour into an oiled dish – the bigger the dish the more crispy crust you will have – and roast for 25 – 30 minutes until the crust is a dark orange but not burned.
Try and stop yourself from eating every last bit of them.

Bodega Salentein is really special and should be on everyone’s hit list when they visit Mendoza. Not only is there lots of interesting wine on offer, there is also an impressive large art gallery, outdoor sculptures,  two restaurants and the most amazingly designed winery.  You can stay at the posada too, which if staying in Mendoza is worth your while as it’s 1.5 hours from Mendoza City.

Bodega Salentein - look at this little critter!

Bodega Salentein is stunning – breathtaking really –  set at 1200m in the Valle de Uco in the Andes – only a few miles from where I had my gaucho day as it happens (you can plan to visit both better than I did – visiting days apart and staying in Mendoza in between is not the best way to do it).

Sculpture at Bodega Salentein

Bodega Salentein is designed in the shape of a Jesuit cross, this is in homage to the origins of the wine industry in Argentina as the original vines were planted by Jesuit priests who needed the wine to celebrate mass.Things have progressed since and Argentine wines can compete internationally, and are more likely to appear on a restaurant wine list than in a church.

Far from traditional, the Bodega is sleek and modern yet fits beautifully into its surroundings in the Andes. The four wings of the Bodega cellar converge and meet at a circular central chamber which is it with daylight from above. It resembles an amphitheater and was inspired by ancient classical temples. This is no surprise when you are standing in the middle of it.

When you stand in the centre and speak – or shout or sing – bang in the centre – there is the most incredible sound as your voice bounces back from every wall to great you. The wines are stored around this in stainless steel tanks and aged in French oak casks. They often have concerts here too.

The wines were great. Three ranges at three different price levels are offered. I loved the Primus range, especially the Malbec which was rich with berries but also pepper and spice. A perfect match for an Argentine steak dinner. The lower priced Killka range had some terrific bargains worth seeking out including a lovely rich Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Magically I hit on the day when they were launching the Killka ranged and a new exhibit from a very successful local artist in their beautiful gallery. Some brilliant Argentine dishes like Locro were served up, and of course lots of empanadas.

I will have to return and stay in the posada on site on my next trip, it is beautiful and they run cookery classes, tasting tours, horse riding and much more. They also organise a Transfer + Tour & Tasting + Lunch for $150 per person.

Bodega Salentein is beautiful, cultural and delicious. Magical, I loved it. I just wish that I had more time there.

http://www.bodegasalentein.com/

My expectations are always high for Shacklewell Nights. I’ve been several times and it is always excellent. A collaboration between supper club veteran Claire Roberson and St John chef Jonathan Woolway, great British food served family style is what you can expect here, wherever they decide to cook it (they are always on the move).

The view from the patio at Restaurants in Residence last night

Restaurants in Residence is in an old office block in Canary Wharf looking with fantastic views of the fiscal skyline. We started with some great cocktails (£8 each) on the outdoor patio near the bar, taking it all in.

Tables are for 8, and are shared. Given the location the tables were labelled sales, typing pool etc. We hilariously were in sales, I couldn’t think of a job I would be worse at! It was all good fun though.

Restaurants in Residence Bar

We opted for the wine matching chosen by the sommelier at St John (4 glasses for £32) but you can also choose by the bottle. A really vibrant summery dish started the night, Roast Tomato, Bobby Bean & Berkswell Cheese. I loved this, the tomatoes were beautifully sweet and some nice crisp croutons addictive.

Tomato, Bobby Bean & Berkswell Cheese

Brown Shrimp, Cucumber & Chervil followed. This was beautiful and is responsible for me scooting to my fishmongers to buy some brown shrimp earlier! The salad was lush and the nutty brown shrimps plentiful. I couldn’t resist seconds even though I knew there was more to come.

Brown Shrimp, Cucumber & Chervil

Braised Lamb, Carrots & Mint Sauce were served for main (with Courgette, Goats Curd, Saffron & Mint for veggies). Both neck and shoulder were served and after the light starters we dived deep into rich flavours here. Both were slow cooked and tender with beautiful flavour.

Lamb Shoulder

Peach Sorbet, Elderflower & Schnapps cleansed pour palates and prepared us for the delicious Summer Berries, Meringue & Cream served on a big platter for sharing. Lovely and a perfect finish.

Dessert

Shacklewell Nights is in residence in Canary Wharf for 5 nights. Last night was the second night. Tickets (at £45 excl drinks) for all remaining nights are still available online and over the phone on the day – do go, you won’t regret it. It’s fun, different, and the food is great.

http://createlondon.org/restaurantsinresidence/shacklewell-nights/

http://shacklewellnights.com/

It’s very common in Mendoza, to find wineries with good restaurants. I deliberately looked for the best of these as I wanted the full food & wine experience. Bodega Septima, even in Winter was a stunner, with a large light filled terrace overlooking the Andes. The air is clear and crisp and the sunlight warm.

I started my meal with a glass of their Maria sparkling wine on the terrace. Made using cava techniques it was quite rich and full bodied (no major surprise as Bodega Septima is owned by Spanish winery and cava producer, Codorniu).

Opting for the tasting menu, I had to start with some empanadas, a delicious caprese one (basil, tomato & mozarella), and of course a mendocino beef one.

This was followed by a beautifully fresh and tender beef carpaccio, served with Septima Malbec.

More beef? I know, wasn’t I getting sick of it by now? Not yet, and I knew these guys would do such a good job I had to try it for main course too. A huge hunk of beef was served perfectly medium rare with a herb crust and a beautiful light pumpkin mousse accompanied.

More malbec was very well received.

Dessert was a delicious take on a gaucho dish of fresh cheese with fruits and nuts and it was delicious. It was nice and light after all of that beef too. We had it with a Septima late harvest Gewurztraminer, a really nice pudding wine produced at Bodega Septima. It had a slight tartness which was great with the cheese.

The tasting menu was 190 pesos (£32) excluding wine. A bargain and definitely worth popping by for the full food and wine experience! I could have spent all day on that balcony sipping Maria sparkling wine.

http://www.bodegaseptima.com/turismo.php?lg=en

A quick photo post for you today on Bodega Septima in Mendoza. At 1200 m altitude and nestled in the Andes it’s a bit of a stunner. It has an excellent restaurant and some great wines too with a terrace over looking the glorious Andes. Back tomorrow with some details on that but you can take a quick peek for now.

A trip to Argentina has a few essentials. Steak (check), empanadas (check), malbec and torrontes (check), visits to wineries in Mendoza (check) and a visit to an Estancia to live a gaucho lifestyle for a few days (check).

Argentina has many estancias, the one I visited came highly recommended, indeed I was supposed to visit there with a friend last November but personal circumstances intervened. She insisted that I couldn’t miss it, and when the estancia extended an invitation, I jumped on it.

Los Potreros is an hour or so outside of Cordoba, utterly excised from the urban civilisation where I most often bang my drum, in the wild pampas of Argentina. When I visited in winter (June) it looked like a summer scene to me with a wild brown green expanse bathing in a bright blue sun lit sky. I was going to a place where I had no choice but to relax, eat good food, drink good wine and enjoy it. A perfect break.

The only way to get there is by car, and Los Potreros arrange this for you. I was pretty tired after an intense overnight bus journey (the result of an ash puffing Chilean volcano) so I dozed until we hit the track to the Estancia, which was a couple of miles off the main road. Lou & Kevin were there to greet us with some fresh homemade lemonade before breakfast.

People go to Los Potreros for two reasons: to horse ride and to relax. You don’t need to worry about anything practical. Your food is cooked for you (by their excellent Argentine cook Patricia) and you share your meal with the other guests (up to 12). Alcohol is provided at no extra cost.

I spent the first day blissfully bouncing from breakfast to lunch to afternoon tea and dinner while retiring to my wood fire warmed room to read in bed in between. It was perfect.

Horseriding must be done too, and while most guests went out twice a day for long rides, I chose to go just once. I was very happy hanging around and reading while listening to the chirpy bright green monk parakeets shout obscenities at each other and kick each other out of their  nests. My ride was a beautiful and gentle mini explore of the pampas, a condor even flew overhead.

Kevin and Lou raise cattle, so all of the beef that you eat is their own, the eggs from their chickens. They generate all of their electricity on site. Everything you eat is homemade and delicious.

Highlights were many but, the best for me were an impromptu wine tasting organised by Kevin, and the Argentine Asado, served gaucho style. Three steaks were served one after the other, starting with flank and finishing with the favourite bife de chorizo. Normally Kevin cooks this on his parrilla, which he designed himself, but on this occasion, due to some wintry rain, we had to retire indoors. Patricia’s gorgeous cakes proved irresistible and plentiful too.

I really enjoyed my time there, it allowed me to relax and de-stress after the mania of writing my book. Kevin and Lou are wonderful & warm hosts, and see that you have everything you need while you are there. I can see now why my friend goes there every year, I suspect I will be back too.

Estancia Los Potreros, Cordoba, Argentina

http://www.estancialospotreros.com/

Rates start from $340 per night all inclusive for a minimum 3 night stay (includes accomodation, horse-riding, food & alcohol).

I stayed as a guest of Los Potreros

Spiced Squash & Chickpea Burger

Call it an overdose of meat in Argentina, or an acknowledgement that none of my clothes fit and it’s time to get a little healthier. I want to feel good, and I want to feel lighter. I want to feel like I did 2 years ago before I started to over indulge in this crazy little blog world of mine, and gain weight. So expect some healthier recipes from me here, and the occasional over indulgence.

I can’t diet, I love food too much. I can make lighter, nutritious food that still tastes great and sates my appetite. Ceviche is a perfect example of delicious food that is gorgeous and that won’t pork your waistline. I plan to dedicate my summer to cooking food like this, eating it and blogging it. Hopefully, at the end of it my clothes will fit too. There will be some exercise also – I cycled 15 miles yesterday. And the essential, occasional blowout. Yeehaw!

Recently, a veggie friend came for lunch so I made some lovely veggie burgers. I can never understand why veggie burgers are so crap! Beans and lentils are fabulous so why do they become so nasty in a burger? Because they are crap processed beans I expect. These were perfect for the glorious summer day that we met, light and packed with flavour. I wanted to show my veggie friend that she could have fun at a bbq too.

Chickpeas! What’s not to love? And pumpkin / squash, well I am sold. Spices, well, yes of course. Garlic, fresh coriander, uh-huh. You see where I am going with this. A gooey pattie shaped into a ball, squished and fried and there you have a glorious veggie burger ready to tuck into a bun and be devoured.

Note on the ingredients: These burgers really benefit from home cooked chickpeas but you can try tinned ones too. They will be a little soggier, get the best ones you can and drain them well. Expect the patty to be a little sticky, you don’t want it to be dry after you cook it after all. You will need to roast the pumpkin in advance, any leftovers will make a lovely soup.

Recipe: Spiced Squash & Chickpea Vegetarian Burgers

Ingredients:

300g homecooked or 1 drained tin of chickpeas
300g roast squash or pumpkin, mashed (the weight is after it is roasted – use the rest for a soup!)
75g plain flour, sieved (just to remove any lumps)
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 inch ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
handful of fresh coriander leaves chopped

Method

If your pumpkin is very wet, drain it in a sieve. You won’t need to do this for butternut squash.
Mash with the chickpeas using a potato masher, don’t blend or it will become too gooey, you want it to be rough, with approx half of the chickpeas well mashed.
Toast the spices in a dry pan over a medium heat until fragrant (no more tan a couple of minutes) and grind in a pestle and mortar.
Fry the chilli and ginger for a few minutes in a little oil, then add the garlic for a further minute, and finally the spices and fry for a further 2 – 3 minutes. Add to the pumpkin and chickpeas with the coriander leaves and flour, mix thoroughly and season to taste.
Shape into little round balls (they should be sticky), then squash until about 1 cm thick.
Fry for 3 – 4 minutes on each side and serve hot.

Buenos Aires is a terrific city to eat and drink in. There is all that great steak, those sweetbreads, empanadas, Peruvian food including my favourite ceviche, and lots of fine dining too. There is lots of Italian food as a result of a large immigration from the Piedmont primarily from the late 19th century, but I chose not to explore that as we can get a lot of that here. One of the great things about eating out in BA is that when you compare prices to London, it can be a bit of a bargain, although prices are really climbing.

To drink there are pisco sours (a gorgeous Peruvian cocktail), and all the Malbec you can drink. Don’t just focus on the malbec though – Argentina has great Cabernet Suavignons and the Torrontés is delicious (especially from Salta – thank you Fiona Beckett for that tip!).

Notes on eating in Buenos Aires: the portions are large, the Argentines don’t like spice (even pepper) and they love beef as much as you’ve heard and they like it well done. So,you need to learn the following: jugoso is rare – pronounced WHO-go-so and medio – jugoso is medium rare. A word of warning though, Argentine beef isn’t aged like it is here so it’s a little bloody and you will really feel this on some cuts if you get them cooked rare. Otherwise, pack a little tabasco and some spices, and you’ll be sorted.

My favourites and recommendations are:

STEAK

La Cabrera

La Cabrera is wonderful. In Palermo, the prices reflect it but the food is very good. It is touristy but lots of locals dine here too. You can wait for a table and while you do they will give you a glass of sparkling wine.  Meals come with a tonne of extras. Have the beef, and definitely have the sweetbreads.

Don Julio

A friendly welcoming place in Palermo, Don Julio has a terrific wine list and excellent meat. The only thing I wouldn’t recommend here is the vegetables (marrowfat peas anyone?) but the ribs are great and the dulce de leche pancakes are a must for dessert.

Rolaso

An unassuming hidden gem in Palermo, the steak here was one of the best that I had in Buenos Aires. They do a terrific 40 peso lunch deal too (which I had when I went) which will get you steak, chips & wine plus another course – at the current exchange rate, that’s just under £7. One of the owers used to work at Don Julio I believe. And you can tell when you have the Dulce de Leche pancakes – delicious.

La Brigada

Go to La Brigada but don’t go there on the weekend. It’s horrible, like a theme park. Queues of tourists snapping like Will & Kate have just walked by. I thought I might die. Mid week though (and only in the off season I suspect) it is a gem. Great steak, lots of brilliant offal (try the goat sweetbreads), buffalo meat, wild boar, good empanadas and lovely provencal fries (chips tossed in parsley and garlic). Great wine list too. They do the gimmicky cutting of the steak with a spoon, but it’s worth seeing that once, even if it is shamefully touristy.

FINE DINING

Hernán Gipponi at the Fierro Hotel

Hernán cut his culinary teeth in Spain, spending time in kitchens at the Guggenheim Bilbao and Quique Dacosta’s El Poblet in Denia, Valencia, both recipients of two Michelin Stars. He has returned to Buenos Aires and runs a terrific restaurant at the Fierro Hotel. I did the 9 course tasting menu with wine matching, the menu was 190 pesos (currently £32) , the wine matching 90 pesos (£15) or 150 pesos for the premium (£25).

I treated myself to the premium one and it was so lovely, and an education on Argentinian wines. It was a great launch pad to explore as I ate there when I arrived. Considered expensive for Argentina (and worth it-  there were lots of local there), but for us, a bargain. I had a – watch out I am overusing it – terrific meal.  Hernán is a brilliant chef and I loved the food and the experience. It echoed experiences in Spain and London but had its own character.

Highlights were the sweetbreads with fennel and lemongrass matched with a terrific Rutini Gewurztraminer. In the summer, there is a garden out the back where you can enjoy your apertif.

Astrid Y Gaston

Astrid Y Gaston’s Lima sibling was the first Peruvian restaurant to make the Worlds 50 Best list this year. Housed in  big old house painted in vibrant (and tasteful) red and green, Astrid Y Gaston is quite formal (I thought I saw the Maitre D flinch when we arrived) but the service at our table was well informed and friendly.

We did the tasting menu (from memory 6 course) for 240 pesos (£40) and instead of wine matching, ordered some Animal Brut (you just have to, right?!). Highlights were the ceviche and the veal cheek. Recommended although sadly they don’t use chilli as they do in Peru as the Argentines just don’t like it.

PERUVIAN

Sipan

Sipan was an absolute highlight of my trip. A brilliant example of the Buenos Aires fixation of ceviche and sushi joints, the food is excellent, if pricey. Dishes circle 100 pesos (£17) but they are to be shared between at least two. Definitely have the salmon with passion fruit and some causa (cold Peruvian potato dishes, much better than they sound). Wash it down with some pisco sours Also eat in the downtown one, I have been told that the food is better there.

Osaka

Osaka in Palermo is quite Japanese to look at but serves up lots of ceviche too. Sit at the bar and watch them work, it’s fascinating. I had a ceviche tasting plate for 100 pesos (£17), where you choose three of their ceviches. I had a classic and two fusion ones and tow fusion osaka style (the best Japanese technique with the finest Peruvian ingredients). I should have known when I was told it was only a medium portion that it would be huge.

PIZZA & EMPANADAS

El Cuartito

Pizza?! Not just any pizza but cheese thick and rich Buenos Aires fugazzetta. Try the faina too and the empanadas. It’s positively buzzing here and expect queues but it’s a great experience.

San Juanino

I was told the best empanadas in Buenos Aires, and I would have to agree. Try the branch in Recoleta.

I went to Argentina, and I fell in love with Peruvian food. I loved the Argentinian food too, the sweetbreads particularly and the empanadas, especially those gorgeous beef ones from Mendoza. I have long been a fan of chimmichurri with steak, although, controversially, I like to make mine with fresh herbs.I prefer the fresher flavour and softer texture.

The Peruvian food though, that was a revelation. I have been interested in Peruvian food for a while, and bought a number of Peruvian food ingredients when I visited Florida in February. Then my interest was piqued further when Astrid Y Gaston in Lima was selected for the Worlds 50 Best list (I tried the tasting menu at their Buenos Aires branch recently – more on that later). Then I met Martin, a Peruvian entrepreneur in London opening a Ceviche and Pisco bar in London later this year.

It seems Peruvian food is in, and I can absolutely understand why. I just wonder why it took so long?!

I arrived back in London last week obsessed and craving many things, but especially the food that I had at a particular restaurant in Buenos Aires, Sipan. Argentinians love sushi, and they love ceviche,  so hybrid Japaanese-Peruvian restaurants have mushroomed. It sounds like an awful fusion concept but, surprisingly, it really works, and most serve terrific and very fresh sushi and ceviche.

My favourite dish at Sipan was a salmon ceviche with passion fruit. I say ceviche it was more a take on salmon sashimi with a passion fruit sauce poured over it. Ceviche is fish that is allowed to “cook” in citrus for 15 – 20 minutes, so I decided to take those flavours and do a more traditional ceviche at home.

Note on the ingredients: One of the Peruvian products I brought back from the US is called Aji Amarillo, a very fruity and sweet bright yellow chilli, mine was pureed and jarred. It has a unique flavour, almost slightly charred and very sweet and fruity. I love it and have been using it everywhere. You can source it online, but do substitute with fresh chopped chilli if you need to.

Recipe: Passion Fruit & Lime Salmon Ceviche

400g salmon fillet, skin removed and cut into thin slices or strips
2 passion fruits, halved with fruit scooped out and passed through a sieve
juice of 2 limes
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
coriander
2 tsp aji amarillo or 1 fresh chilli, deseeded and chopped
1 tbsp fresh coriander leaves
half red onion sliced

Combine the lime, sieved passion fruit, garlic and aji amarillo. Add to the salmon and make sure the salmon is coated thoroughly. Cover and leave to marinade in the fridge for 15 – 20 minutes.
Remove from the fridge and serve with the coriander and red onion.
Eat immediately and enjoy!

So, that was Argentina. I am back, it’s only 5am BA time , and I have already been awake 3 hours. My flight back was rammed with a noisy school tour and lots of turbulence, so I am, well, very sleepy!

What a trip though. It was wonderful. So much to write about. For now, the first in a two part photo post, a little trip down memory lane for me and some highlights and a peek at future posts for you.

Roadside Parrilla in Buenos Aires

Ceviche at Sipan in Bueos Aires

Street tango dancer in Buenos Aires

Wood roasted empanadas in Mendoza

Veal cheek on the tasting menu at Astrid Y Gaston

Agronomists at the Argento Vineyard

Rush Hour Mendoza

Oooops! Accidentally took a week off. Forced in part by a lack of internet in the pampas, a giant party and resulting incapacity in Buenos Aires and 27 hour door-to-door trip home, followed by – and currently in – jet lag.

BUT! Look at what greeted me when I got back?! So exciting.

LOOK! It's my BOOK! :)

Next people to get theirs will be folks that buy on Amazon – usually a little before the real life launch date.

Buy Comfort & Spice on Amazon :)

Comfort & Spice! Remember that? My cookbook! It seems so long ago that I handed the manuscript in and I have been travelling so much since. We are drawing closer to the publish date now though (September 5th) and it is getting exciting.

Exciting, and I am slightly nervous, I must confess. It is normal to be so, I think. Especially for your first book. I have put so much of myself into it, it feels a little raw. I think it must be like watching a first child go to school and hoping that they will be ok. Of course I am very proud of it too. I just hope that you like it as much as I do.

I love the new cover. The first cover was a temporary one and this one I feel really represents me and the content a bit better. As one reader said, it’s roast beef pink too!

So, don’t forget you can pre-order it on Amazon, and if you do you will get it earlier than in the shops. It is usually at least a week earlier, from my own purchases. If you hit “like” on the amazon page (just beneath the title on the amazon page), it helps increase the profile of my book page on Amazon too :)

On a seperate note, the OFM Awards votes close this week on the 24th, so don’t forget to get your vote in! If you want to just vote for the blog section, you can do that too, and it just takes seconds. Every vote does really count, and I appreciate yo taking your time to do it.

(the title should make sense to those compos mentis in the 80s ;)

In Argentina, you seek out beef. That’s a given. The Argentine and particularly gaucho diets until relatively recently consisted almost entirely of beef and all sorts of offal. All cuts fired over parrilla flames and served toppling on platters.

Nothing is  wasted when an animal is slaughtered here, Argentines absolutely love offal. The sweetbreads (thymus and pancreas) are some of the best that I have ever eaten, simply cooked with lemon juice over some hot coals, the crisp offal taste rich and delicate. The chewy rich chitterlings (intestines) are fought over by children. When the bullocks are castrated, the testicles are slung on the parrilla to be eaten. It’s a time of year that all farmers here look forward to.

Wine list at La Cabrera

So, the Aubergine Parrillas (BBQs) are a must and they are everywhere. In Buenos Aires, I explored and visited quite a few. I have 3 favourites (so far!), the first being La Cabrera in Palermo.

Palermo is like the Notting Hill of Buenos Aires. Once quite a rough area it is now all glamour and gloss, with the associated price tag. It does have some really good restaurants though, and naturally the tourists flock here. With La Cabrera there is a lot of hype and so it is insanely popular (even now in low season) but it really lives up to the chatter.

It is actually split over two restaurants, and we chose to sit outside as it was a beautiful sunny day. We were lucky that we didn’t have to wait, but worry not if you do, they will give you sparkling wine to ease the torture.

Provoleta at La Cabrera

A must when in Argentina is the provoleta, a hallmark of the strong Italian influence here, it is an Argentine variant of Italian provolone cheese, waxy and firm, it cooks beautifully. Cooked in cast iron little pots until gooey and crisp, usually with herbs and olive oil it’s incredibly more-ish. A rich starter when lots of meat is due, but it is a must.

La Cabrera in Buenos Aires

La Cabrera is famous for its sweetbreads so we had to order those. We also, wisely, ordered a large rib eye between 3, and trust me that at lunchtime, with all of the side dishes and the salad (simply to ward off scurvy you understand!), it was enough. We needed to leave room for dinner.

Spinach with Tarragon / Mustard Sauce at La Cabrera

A word of warning when you order here, the Argentines like their beef well done, so be sure to order it to your liking. The sweetbreads arrived, and were enormous. Beef pancreas I expect.. I was grateful that I wasn’t eating on my own as I often do.

Sweetbreads at La Cabrera

A thin crisp coating gave way to a succulent rich mass. An uninitiated diner described them of tasting of delicious crispy fat. I couldn’t put it better although it does ignore the gorgeous lighter interior. The steak was rich and large. And all of those sides (all delivered with every order on the house) were playful and a nice distraction from all of that meat. Some spinach with a tarragon mustard sauce was gorgeous and we just slathered it all over the steak.

BEEF! Lots of beef at La Cabrera, Buenos Aires

Meaty spread at La Cabrera, Buenos Aires

We toddled off happily after. Not slayed but pleasantly full. Which is an acquired talent when eating out in Buenos Aires. A siesta is always in order here though, especially after a parrilla indulgence, so make sure you fit one in.

La Cabrera, José Antonio Cabrera 5127, Buenos Aires